Gripgrab Jackets

Fabric Tech and Weather Performance

GripGrab splits its jacket range along a clear line: softshells for cold, blustery days where wind chill is the real problem, and hardshell rain jackets for when the sky genuinely opens. Understanding that distinction saves you buying the wrong tool. A softshell uses high-stretch woven fabric - often bonded to a thin fleece backer - that's windproof, highly water-resistant, and far more breathable than a waterproof membrane. It'll handle drizzle and road spray without complaint. What it won't do is keep you dry through two hours of proper Welsh rain. That's not a flaw; it's physics.

For full waterproofing, GripGrab's hardshell jackets use multi-layer breathable membranes with fully taped seams. Taped seams matter more than most people realise - an uncoated stitch line is basically a row of tiny holes, and once water finds them you'll know about it. Hydrostatic head ratings give you a measurable sense of how much water pressure the fabric can resist before moisture pushes through; GripGrab's dedicated rain jackets sit at ratings that will cope with sustained heavy downpours rather than just light showers. The breathable membrane on these jackets allows water vapour - your sweat - to escape outward while blocking liquid water coming in. That balance is what separates a jacket you can actually climb in from one that leaves you soaked from the inside out. High-intensity efforts on a wet day are where a low breathability rating betrays itself fastest.

DWR (Durable Water Repellent) treatments are applied to the outer face fabric of both softshell and hardshell jackets. Fresh DWR causes water to bead and roll off instantly. As the treatment wears, water starts to wet out the face fabric - it doesn't leak through immediately, but it does compromise breathability and adds weight. Worth keeping an eye on, and easy to address (more on that below).

Understanding the GripGrab Fit and Range

The cut across GripGrab's jacket range is athletic and close, shaped specifically for the riding position rather than standing upright. That means a shorter front hem that doesn't bunch when you're bent over the bars, a drop tail at the rear that keeps draughts off your lower back on long descents, and a high collar that actually covers your neck rather than gaping. High-stretch fabrics in the body and sleeves help the jacket move with you rather than fighting against shoulder and arm movement - a real difference on longer rides where a restrictive jacket becomes genuinely fatiguing.

On sizing: GripGrab's fit is close by design, and if you're planning to layer a heavy winter jersey underneath, sizing up is the sensible call. The jackets are cut to work over a base layer and a mid-weight jersey without excess material creating drag or bunching. Go too large and you lose the flap-free fit that makes them work aerodynamically; go true to size with a thick thermal jersey underneath and you'll feel it across the shoulders. If you're between sizes and ride primarily through autumn rather than deep winter, true to size with a merino mid-layer usually works well. Looking for core protection without the bulk of full sleeves? Check out our dedicated GripGrab Gilets range for highly packable wind protection that pairs cleanly with arm warmers on variable days.

Compared to something like Castelli jackets, which often prioritise an extremely race-close silhouette, GripGrab's fit allows slightly more layering room without sacrificing the purposeful cut. Endura jackets tend to offer more relaxed options across the range, which suits riders who prefer a bit more freedom of movement. dhb jackets frequently undercut on price at a similar spec level, though GripGrab's attention to panel construction and finish detail tends to show over extended use.

Layering and Care for UK Riding

A jacket is only part of the system. What you wear underneath determines whether you stay warm and dry or just manage to stay slightly less miserable. For UK winter riding, a moisture-wicking GripGrab base layer does the heavy lifting of moving sweat away from your skin. Merino base layers regulate temperature well and handle the smell of a long ride better than synthetics, but synthetic options dry faster - useful if you're washing kit between consecutive winter days. The base layer choice affects how hard your jacket's membrane has to work; a base layer that leaves you damp against your skin will make even a good jacket feel cold.

Don't neglect the extremities either. A jacket that performs perfectly becomes academic if your hands are too cold to brake properly - GripGrab gloves and overshoes round out a system that actually keeps you out longer. Layering thin and adding a jacket beats trying to make one thick mid-layer do everything.

On washing: this is where a lot of riders quietly ruin perfectly good jackets. Biological detergents - the standard stuff most people have under the sink - contain enzymes that break down DWR coatings over time. Use a specialist technical wash or a non-bio detergent, and avoid fabric conditioner entirely. Wash on a gentle cycle, low temperature. Once the DWR starts to wet out (you'll notice water soaking in rather than beading), a tumble dry on low heat can partially reactivate it. For a more thorough refresh, a spray-on DWR reproofer applied after washing and then heat-set will restore water-beading performance close to new. It takes ten minutes and extends the jacket's effective life significantly.