Burgtec Pedals

Fitment, Platform Size, and Shoe Compatibility

Every Burgtec pedal runs a standard 9/16" thread, which fits all modern adult mountain bike cranks without adapters or faff. That covers the vast majority of trail, enduro, and downhill bikes on the market today - if you're unsure, check your crank arm; 9/16" is the default for anything not built for a child's bike.

Platform size matters more than most riders realise until they try a properly sized pedal. Burgtec's Penthouse Flat platforms are sized to work with modern flat pedal shoes - think Five Ten Freeriders or similar sticky-soled footwear - where a wide, supportive base stops your foot rolling off the edge under load. The concave profile drops the centre of the platform slightly relative to the edges, which gives your foot a natural cradle without forcing an unnatural stance. It's a subtle thing, but you notice it immediately when you compare it to a flat, featureless platform.

Q-factor - the lateral distance between your pedal faces - stays consistent with Burgtec's standard axle length across the range, keeping your stance width neutral and your knees tracking properly through the pedal stroke. Riders who've had knee trouble with wider-spaced platforms will appreciate that Burgtec hasn't chased an artificially wide stance.

All Burgtec pedals are fully serviceable, and replacement pins, axles, and rebuild kits are available separately. For spares and rebuild components, head to our Burgtec Pedal Spares page where you'll find everything you need to keep them running like new.

Penthouse Flat Mk5 Alloy vs. Composite - What You're Actually Paying For

The Burgtec Penthouse Flat Mk5 comes in two distinct builds, and the difference is more nuanced than simply cheap versus expensive. Understanding the trade-off helps you spend your money in the right place.

The Mk5 Alloy is CNC-machined from aluminium, which gives it a thinner overall profile and a stiffer, more direct feel underfoot. That thinness reduces the chance of pedal strikes on tight, rooty singletrack - useful if you ride anywhere with exposed granite or sandstone edges that'll catch a thick pedal body mid-corner. The machined finish is hard-wearing and resists the kind of surface damage that makes cheaper alloy pedals look wrecked after a season. You're paying for durability and precision.

The Composite version uses a nylon-fibreglass body, which does two things well: it saves meaningful weight, and it deflects rather than dents when you clip a rock or a root. Alloy pedals can develop sharp burrs on the edges from impacts; composite bodies tend to scuff and move on. For riders who aren't sending massive drops but want a high-quality pedal that's lighter and more forgiving on the wallet, the composite is a genuinely strong choice - not a budget compromise.

Here's the part worth emphasising: both versions share the same internal architecture. The same Igus W300 bushings, the same sealed cartridge bearings, the same EN795 grade chromoly axle. The performance difference between the two is about platform material and feel, not longevity or bearing quality. If you're comparing Burgtec against something like DMR pedals or Hope pedals at a similar price, that shared internal spec is worth factoring in - it's not common to get the same bearing quality across a full range like this.

On the Burgtec MK4 vs MK5 question: the Mk5 brought a larger platform, a more pronounced concave, and better mud clearance through a revised body shape. The internals were upgraded too. The Mk4 isn't a bad pedal, but the Mk5 is the one to buy new - the improvements are real, not cosmetic.

Pair your pedals with Burgtec grips and Burgtec handlebars if you want a consistent contact-point setup across the whole cockpit - it's a combination that a lot of enduro and park riders run for good reason.

Keeping Them Running Through a UK Winter

British riding conditions are uniquely hostile to pedal bearings. Peak District grit mixed with standing water creates a grinding paste that works into any gap it can find - and standard cup-and-cone bearings in cheaper pedals don't stand much of a chance against it. Burgtec's answer is a dual-system approach: sealed cartridge bearings at the outer end of the axle, and Igus W300 bushings at the inner end. The Igus material is self-lubricating and resists contamination in a way that conventional bushings don't. The result is that the pedals stay smooth and slop-free for significantly longer, even when you're riding through the kind of thick winter mud that coats everything and dries like concrete.

'Pedal slop' - that lateral wobble you get when the internals wear - is one of those things that creeps up on you gradually until one day you notice your foot moving independently of the platform. With this bearing setup, it takes a lot longer to reach that point, and when it does happen, you can rebuild rather than replace.

A couple of things worth doing before your first ride: apply anti-seize compound or waterproof grease to the 9/16" threads before installation. Aluminium crank arms and steel axles can seize together over a wet winter, and getting them apart later without the right prep can be a genuinely unpleasant experience. Check pin tightness after your first ride too - new pins can seat and loosen slightly, and catching them early saves you losing one on a trail.

Wet, off-camber roots are where aggressive stainless steel pin traction really earns its keep. The oversized 2mm pins bite into the rubber of your flat pedal shoes and hold, even when the platform itself is running with water. It's the difference between a sketchy moment and a proper off. Riders heading out on Welsh trail centres or Scottish singletrack through autumn and winter will feel that immediately.

If you're running Crank Brothers pedals or Nukeproof pedals currently and finding they need regular attention to stay smooth, the Igus bushing setup here is a meaningful step up in longevity between services. Keep a set of Burgtec stems or Burgtec mudguards in mind while you're at it - the mudguard especially earns its place in a British winter.